Your Adafruit Proto-Screwshield (Wingshield) may arrive as a kit which will require soldering. Once you've checked the polarity, solder the two lengths of ~26 AWG wire to your 2.1mm jack socket accordingly. The jack's center pin is _usually_ positive (+ve), but it depends on the USB to 2.1mm jack cable, so be sure to also check the polarity using a multimeter. This will allow you to test the components and the code (including any changes you make) and it will help you to decide which version of the case to use ('standard' or 'rotated').Īs we will be wiring the power directly to the 5V pin, we _strongly_ recommend checking the voltage at the 2.1mm power jack using a multimeter. We recommend wiring up the project and testing it before printing a case for it. If you would like to use 'light mode' (white background), you should change the following line: If you will be using the 'rotated' version of the case (for viewing from above), you should change the following line:īefore: const boolean rotateScreen = false Īfter: const boolean rotateScreen = true If you will be using a DHT11 sensor instead of a DHT22 sensor, you should change the following line: Please take a note of the following changes which may be necessary, depending on your needs: Adafruit Unified Sensor - required by DHT sensor library.Simply search for the following libraries and install them: We recommend installing the dependencies through the Arduino IDE's Library Manager, which can be accessed via: 'Tools > Manage Libraries.'. The code for this project has several dependencies on other libraries. Therefore, you should consider where it will reside once built. The 2.8" display module has a optimum viewing angle that means it is best viewed from straight-on and below, or straight-on and above, but not both. In particular, the Arduino's on-board voltage regulator generates a significant amount of heat, so we bypass the voltage regulator in this project by wiring a 5V power supply directly to the 5V pin and we mount the DHT22/DHT11 to the exterior of the case with an air-gap between the sensor and the case.īy doing this we've achieved temperature readings that are within 0.5-1.0C of independent thermometers. However, the electronic components used in this project generate heat, which can affect the sensor's measurements. The DHT22 sensor is said to be accurate to within 0.5C and 5% humidity (the DHT11 is slightly less accurate). 2x M3 nuts - For the DHT22/DHT11 stand-off bolts/screws.2x M3x20mm - To mount the DHT22/DHT11 via the 14mm stand-offs.4x M3x12mm - To join the front and rear of the case.red and black).įor the 3D printed case, you will need the following bolts/screws: 2x 15-25cm (6-10") ~26 AWG wire - ideally in different colors (e.g.Panel Mount 2.1mm DC barrel jack - The barrel should be ~11.5mm in diameter and ~16mm in length including the terminals.DFROBOT DHT22 (SEN0137) Temperature and Humidity Sensor (a DFROBOT DHT11 (DFR0067) sensor can be used instead with a minor code change).Velleman VMA412 2.8" Touchscreen Display Module. Adafruit Proto-Screwshield (Wingshield).If you use alternative components they may not fit inside the case. If you plan to 3D print the case included with this project, you will need the exact components listed below. It also displays a graph of the readings from the past 12 hours. It shows the current temperature, temperature index (feel), humidity level and dew point. For this project we are building an Arduino-based thermometer and humidity display.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |